Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Audi TT DIY All about the DSG and Launch Control
As most of you probably know by now, the Launch Control feature was removed from the DSGs Transmission Control Module (TCM) for all US-spec 3.2 TTs.
Ive been trying to figure out how this was done, and after working with HPA on getting their FT400 turbo kit installed in my TT weve all learned a lot about what exactly happened:
1. Lucky first few 3.2 owners: the first 150 or so US-spec TT 3.2s made it on this side of the pond with the same TCM as the Euro-spec TCM. Therefore, the Launch Control feature was enabled as it was in the code and nobody touched it. I actually test-drove the first TT that made it to California, and even though I originally thought LC was disabled, it was actually there and working like a charm. Too bad I wanted to special-order mine..
2. Port hold: Sometime in late 2003, Audi of America imposed a port hold on all 3.2 TTs as a "defect" was found with the DSG. What truly happened is not confirmed by anyone, but we believe the port hold was mainly created to disable the Launch Control in all US-bound 3.2 TTs. From that point on, all US-spec 3.2s had the Launch Control program disabled as the TCM is completely different - more on this later.
3. DSG Recall: sometime in early 2004, there was a recall on some early 3.2 VINs as they found out there was a *real* defect with the DSG. Even though the rumor was that this recall was created as an excuse to disable Launch Control on those early 150 or so cars that "slipped through", there was actually a problem with the way the early DSGs were built: a seal was installed incorrectly causing the DSG to get stuck in a gear or not engage at all. This was also experienced in Europe, so we know that this recall was legit. *However* in replacing the problematic DSGs, Audi of America took this opportunity to install completely new TCMs along with the DSG itself - hence disabling Launch Control!
4. More than a code change: Beyond a simple reflashing of the DSGs TCM to disable the Launch Control program, Audi has created an entirely new TCM controller for US-bound 3.2s. This new TCM doesnt even have the capability of getting reflashed with the Launch Control program, because the code is completely missing. I had a hard time swallowing that, being a software engineer and such, but HPA worked long hours with Germany to find out that the US-spec TCM simply cannot take the LC program at all. What HPA ended up doing for my install is order a Euro-spec TCM overnight to complete the FT400 install, as they had promised me LC with the kit. The most painful part is that the TCM is encased inside the DSG so they had to drain the oil from the DSG, take it completely apart, remove the US-spec TCM and replace it with the Euro-spec TCM.
5. Paddle circuits too! Beyond the TCM being completely new for the US, the steering wheel was also completely rewired with a 4-wire harness, vs a 2-wire harness in European 3.2s. Indeed, the paddle circuits are completely different in that the US-spec ones are simply an on/off setup (short to gound), whereas the Euro-spec ones are in the same circuit loop with different resistors to act in different functions - more on this below. So HPA had to tear the steering wheel apart to remove the paddle circuit boards, solder some resistors on them and only use 2 of the 4 wires coming from the TCM. Wish I had kept those R32 aluminum paddles circuit boards!
6. Manual Mode not acting like one: The DSG behavior was even tweaked differently in these new TCMs. In Manual Mode, the transmission would shift by itself just before hitting redline. Everyone who reviewed the DSG complained that this Manual mode was really not manual at all as it was *automatically* shifting for you before redline! This can be particularly annoying on the track where you want to hold a gear on the apex of a corner.. When HPA replaced the TCM in my DSG, they also increased the redline to 7150 RPM. The beauty of the Euro-spec TCM is that now, Manual mode is truly Manual as the DSG will hold a gear around 7000 RPM until you upshift, and not upshift *for you*.
7. Manual Over-ride: One other difference to the US-spec TCM is that, when either in Drive or Sport mode, the driver can always take over the shifting action manually with the paddles *however* this over-ride times out after 15 seconds or so. In the Euro-spec TCM, the over-ride does NOT timeout after 15 seconds, but keeps you in Manual mode *until you hold the right paddle for a couple of seconds!!!* So now Im kicking myself for "erasing" the /OFF from my right paddle... oh well.
Read the rest entry[...]
Ive been trying to figure out how this was done, and after working with HPA on getting their FT400 turbo kit installed in my TT weve all learned a lot about what exactly happened:
1. Lucky first few 3.2 owners: the first 150 or so US-spec TT 3.2s made it on this side of the pond with the same TCM as the Euro-spec TCM. Therefore, the Launch Control feature was enabled as it was in the code and nobody touched it. I actually test-drove the first TT that made it to California, and even though I originally thought LC was disabled, it was actually there and working like a charm. Too bad I wanted to special-order mine..
2. Port hold: Sometime in late 2003, Audi of America imposed a port hold on all 3.2 TTs as a "defect" was found with the DSG. What truly happened is not confirmed by anyone, but we believe the port hold was mainly created to disable the Launch Control in all US-bound 3.2 TTs. From that point on, all US-spec 3.2s had the Launch Control program disabled as the TCM is completely different - more on this later.
3. DSG Recall: sometime in early 2004, there was a recall on some early 3.2 VINs as they found out there was a *real* defect with the DSG. Even though the rumor was that this recall was created as an excuse to disable Launch Control on those early 150 or so cars that "slipped through", there was actually a problem with the way the early DSGs were built: a seal was installed incorrectly causing the DSG to get stuck in a gear or not engage at all. This was also experienced in Europe, so we know that this recall was legit. *However* in replacing the problematic DSGs, Audi of America took this opportunity to install completely new TCMs along with the DSG itself - hence disabling Launch Control!
4. More than a code change: Beyond a simple reflashing of the DSGs TCM to disable the Launch Control program, Audi has created an entirely new TCM controller for US-bound 3.2s. This new TCM doesnt even have the capability of getting reflashed with the Launch Control program, because the code is completely missing. I had a hard time swallowing that, being a software engineer and such, but HPA worked long hours with Germany to find out that the US-spec TCM simply cannot take the LC program at all. What HPA ended up doing for my install is order a Euro-spec TCM overnight to complete the FT400 install, as they had promised me LC with the kit. The most painful part is that the TCM is encased inside the DSG so they had to drain the oil from the DSG, take it completely apart, remove the US-spec TCM and replace it with the Euro-spec TCM.
5. Paddle circuits too! Beyond the TCM being completely new for the US, the steering wheel was also completely rewired with a 4-wire harness, vs a 2-wire harness in European 3.2s. Indeed, the paddle circuits are completely different in that the US-spec ones are simply an on/off setup (short to gound), whereas the Euro-spec ones are in the same circuit loop with different resistors to act in different functions - more on this below. So HPA had to tear the steering wheel apart to remove the paddle circuit boards, solder some resistors on them and only use 2 of the 4 wires coming from the TCM. Wish I had kept those R32 aluminum paddles circuit boards!
6. Manual Mode not acting like one: The DSG behavior was even tweaked differently in these new TCMs. In Manual Mode, the transmission would shift by itself just before hitting redline. Everyone who reviewed the DSG complained that this Manual mode was really not manual at all as it was *automatically* shifting for you before redline! This can be particularly annoying on the track where you want to hold a gear on the apex of a corner.. When HPA replaced the TCM in my DSG, they also increased the redline to 7150 RPM. The beauty of the Euro-spec TCM is that now, Manual mode is truly Manual as the DSG will hold a gear around 7000 RPM until you upshift, and not upshift *for you*.
7. Manual Over-ride: One other difference to the US-spec TCM is that, when either in Drive or Sport mode, the driver can always take over the shifting action manually with the paddles *however* this over-ride times out after 15 seconds or so. In the Euro-spec TCM, the over-ride does NOT timeout after 15 seconds, but keeps you in Manual mode *until you hold the right paddle for a couple of seconds!!!* So now Im kicking myself for "erasing" the /OFF from my right paddle... oh well.
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
Audi Q7 DIY Proper Washing Techniques
The first thing you would like to do is pick a shaded area, this will help in deterring water spotting later. Items you will need for this venture are : 2 buckets, car wash, sheepskin mitt or microfiber mitt/towels, waffle weave drying towel, wheel brush, hose nozzle, a safe wheel cleaner, maybe some tire cleaner. Some folks like to clean wheels first, so I won’t get into the particulars of that, its fairly easy, and basic. Apply a safe wheel cleaner, to one wheel at a time, clean with brush or suitable cleaning tool, rinse, and continue to the next. While your car is cool, and hopefully in the shade, start hosing the surface off with a high stream of water, start at the top so dirt and contaminants fall over non rinsed areas. Make sure to use a good stream to any side moldings and emblems, you will be amazed at the quantity of dirt hiding in there.
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever you’ve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until you’re completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck and I hope to have helped at least a few of you!
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
Read the rest entry[...]
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever you’ve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until you’re completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck and I hope to have helped at least a few of you!
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
Monday, April 1, 2013
Audi TT DIY TT trunk fuel door Button swapping procedure
You see, in a 3.2 TT with DSG, the shift knob in "P" (Park) position makes it harder to reach the right button, which by default is the trunk opening one, compared to the gas-cap button. And since the trunk button is used much more often than the gas cap one, it just made much more sense to swap them so that the trunk one on the left.
Note that all credit for this "mod" goes to Herve from Switzerland, who got his 3.2 TT a few months ago and decided that the placement of these buttons in the center console didnt make sense. So he swapped them and wrote a procedure here but without pictures.
Today, I bring you a fully-documented and pictorial procedure on how to do this:
1) Lift the buttons holder, which is simply snapped into the center console by 4 little tabs shown here:
2) I was able to lift it from one side with my fingers, but I guess you could also use a flat-head screwdriver as well:
3) Lift the other side of the button-holder and give some slack to the wiring harness:
4) Release the connectors by pushing the little tab in the direction of the arrows:
5) Repeat for second connector:
6) This is what the connectors look like - note the color corresponding to the button (red for gas cap, brown for trunk) trust me youll need that later:
7) Gently apply upward pressure, using a screwdriver, to release each connection from the button-holder:
8) This is what the electrical contacts look like:
9) Repeat for second connector:
10) Now you have two free contacts that you can remove from the button-holder and place back in the colored connector (theyre identical):
11) To remove the buttons themselves, youll need to push in on 2 tabs located on each side of the base:
12) Use a small screwdriver (flat-head) for the other tab as its well hidden in there:
13) Push the button up from the inside (by the tabs) until it sticks out a little from the top:
14) Lift the button up to release it, but be careful not to lose the little spring:
15) Repeat for other button, and swap their place - remember how I told you to remember which color matches which button? Youll need that to replace the connectors at the bottom to match each button.
Repeat the steps above in the reverse order to put everything back together, and push down on the console to snap the holder back in place - Voil?:
16) You can now see how easy it is to reach the trunk button when the shift know is in "P":
Read the rest entry[...]
Note that all credit for this "mod" goes to Herve from Switzerland, who got his 3.2 TT a few months ago and decided that the placement of these buttons in the center console didnt make sense. So he swapped them and wrote a procedure here but without pictures.
Today, I bring you a fully-documented and pictorial procedure on how to do this:
1) Lift the buttons holder, which is simply snapped into the center console by 4 little tabs shown here:
2) I was able to lift it from one side with my fingers, but I guess you could also use a flat-head screwdriver as well:
3) Lift the other side of the button-holder and give some slack to the wiring harness:
4) Release the connectors by pushing the little tab in the direction of the arrows:
5) Repeat for second connector:
6) This is what the connectors look like - note the color corresponding to the button (red for gas cap, brown for trunk) trust me youll need that later:
7) Gently apply upward pressure, using a screwdriver, to release each connection from the button-holder:
8) This is what the electrical contacts look like:
9) Repeat for second connector:
10) Now you have two free contacts that you can remove from the button-holder and place back in the colored connector (theyre identical):
11) To remove the buttons themselves, youll need to push in on 2 tabs located on each side of the base:
12) Use a small screwdriver (flat-head) for the other tab as its well hidden in there:
13) Push the button up from the inside (by the tabs) until it sticks out a little from the top:
14) Lift the button up to release it, but be careful not to lose the little spring:
15) Repeat for other button, and swap their place - remember how I told you to remember which color matches which button? Youll need that to replace the connectors at the bottom to match each button.
Repeat the steps above in the reverse order to put everything back together, and push down on the console to snap the holder back in place - Voil?:
16) You can now see how easy it is to reach the trunk button when the shift know is in "P":
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