Showing posts with label and. Show all posts
Showing posts with label and. Show all posts
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Audi TT DIY All about the DSG and Launch Control
As most of you probably know by now, the Launch Control feature was removed from the DSGs Transmission Control Module (TCM) for all US-spec 3.2 TTs.
Ive been trying to figure out how this was done, and after working with HPA on getting their FT400 turbo kit installed in my TT weve all learned a lot about what exactly happened:
1. Lucky first few 3.2 owners: the first 150 or so US-spec TT 3.2s made it on this side of the pond with the same TCM as the Euro-spec TCM. Therefore, the Launch Control feature was enabled as it was in the code and nobody touched it. I actually test-drove the first TT that made it to California, and even though I originally thought LC was disabled, it was actually there and working like a charm. Too bad I wanted to special-order mine..
2. Port hold: Sometime in late 2003, Audi of America imposed a port hold on all 3.2 TTs as a "defect" was found with the DSG. What truly happened is not confirmed by anyone, but we believe the port hold was mainly created to disable the Launch Control in all US-bound 3.2 TTs. From that point on, all US-spec 3.2s had the Launch Control program disabled as the TCM is completely different - more on this later.
3. DSG Recall: sometime in early 2004, there was a recall on some early 3.2 VINs as they found out there was a *real* defect with the DSG. Even though the rumor was that this recall was created as an excuse to disable Launch Control on those early 150 or so cars that "slipped through", there was actually a problem with the way the early DSGs were built: a seal was installed incorrectly causing the DSG to get stuck in a gear or not engage at all. This was also experienced in Europe, so we know that this recall was legit. *However* in replacing the problematic DSGs, Audi of America took this opportunity to install completely new TCMs along with the DSG itself - hence disabling Launch Control!
4. More than a code change: Beyond a simple reflashing of the DSGs TCM to disable the Launch Control program, Audi has created an entirely new TCM controller for US-bound 3.2s. This new TCM doesnt even have the capability of getting reflashed with the Launch Control program, because the code is completely missing. I had a hard time swallowing that, being a software engineer and such, but HPA worked long hours with Germany to find out that the US-spec TCM simply cannot take the LC program at all. What HPA ended up doing for my install is order a Euro-spec TCM overnight to complete the FT400 install, as they had promised me LC with the kit. The most painful part is that the TCM is encased inside the DSG so they had to drain the oil from the DSG, take it completely apart, remove the US-spec TCM and replace it with the Euro-spec TCM.
5. Paddle circuits too! Beyond the TCM being completely new for the US, the steering wheel was also completely rewired with a 4-wire harness, vs a 2-wire harness in European 3.2s. Indeed, the paddle circuits are completely different in that the US-spec ones are simply an on/off setup (short to gound), whereas the Euro-spec ones are in the same circuit loop with different resistors to act in different functions - more on this below. So HPA had to tear the steering wheel apart to remove the paddle circuit boards, solder some resistors on them and only use 2 of the 4 wires coming from the TCM. Wish I had kept those R32 aluminum paddles circuit boards!
6. Manual Mode not acting like one: The DSG behavior was even tweaked differently in these new TCMs. In Manual Mode, the transmission would shift by itself just before hitting redline. Everyone who reviewed the DSG complained that this Manual mode was really not manual at all as it was *automatically* shifting for you before redline! This can be particularly annoying on the track where you want to hold a gear on the apex of a corner.. When HPA replaced the TCM in my DSG, they also increased the redline to 7150 RPM. The beauty of the Euro-spec TCM is that now, Manual mode is truly Manual as the DSG will hold a gear around 7000 RPM until you upshift, and not upshift *for you*.
7. Manual Over-ride: One other difference to the US-spec TCM is that, when either in Drive or Sport mode, the driver can always take over the shifting action manually with the paddles *however* this over-ride times out after 15 seconds or so. In the Euro-spec TCM, the over-ride does NOT timeout after 15 seconds, but keeps you in Manual mode *until you hold the right paddle for a couple of seconds!!!* So now Im kicking myself for "erasing" the /OFF from my right paddle... oh well.
Read the rest entry[...]
Ive been trying to figure out how this was done, and after working with HPA on getting their FT400 turbo kit installed in my TT weve all learned a lot about what exactly happened:
1. Lucky first few 3.2 owners: the first 150 or so US-spec TT 3.2s made it on this side of the pond with the same TCM as the Euro-spec TCM. Therefore, the Launch Control feature was enabled as it was in the code and nobody touched it. I actually test-drove the first TT that made it to California, and even though I originally thought LC was disabled, it was actually there and working like a charm. Too bad I wanted to special-order mine..
2. Port hold: Sometime in late 2003, Audi of America imposed a port hold on all 3.2 TTs as a "defect" was found with the DSG. What truly happened is not confirmed by anyone, but we believe the port hold was mainly created to disable the Launch Control in all US-bound 3.2 TTs. From that point on, all US-spec 3.2s had the Launch Control program disabled as the TCM is completely different - more on this later.
3. DSG Recall: sometime in early 2004, there was a recall on some early 3.2 VINs as they found out there was a *real* defect with the DSG. Even though the rumor was that this recall was created as an excuse to disable Launch Control on those early 150 or so cars that "slipped through", there was actually a problem with the way the early DSGs were built: a seal was installed incorrectly causing the DSG to get stuck in a gear or not engage at all. This was also experienced in Europe, so we know that this recall was legit. *However* in replacing the problematic DSGs, Audi of America took this opportunity to install completely new TCMs along with the DSG itself - hence disabling Launch Control!
4. More than a code change: Beyond a simple reflashing of the DSGs TCM to disable the Launch Control program, Audi has created an entirely new TCM controller for US-bound 3.2s. This new TCM doesnt even have the capability of getting reflashed with the Launch Control program, because the code is completely missing. I had a hard time swallowing that, being a software engineer and such, but HPA worked long hours with Germany to find out that the US-spec TCM simply cannot take the LC program at all. What HPA ended up doing for my install is order a Euro-spec TCM overnight to complete the FT400 install, as they had promised me LC with the kit. The most painful part is that the TCM is encased inside the DSG so they had to drain the oil from the DSG, take it completely apart, remove the US-spec TCM and replace it with the Euro-spec TCM.
5. Paddle circuits too! Beyond the TCM being completely new for the US, the steering wheel was also completely rewired with a 4-wire harness, vs a 2-wire harness in European 3.2s. Indeed, the paddle circuits are completely different in that the US-spec ones are simply an on/off setup (short to gound), whereas the Euro-spec ones are in the same circuit loop with different resistors to act in different functions - more on this below. So HPA had to tear the steering wheel apart to remove the paddle circuit boards, solder some resistors on them and only use 2 of the 4 wires coming from the TCM. Wish I had kept those R32 aluminum paddles circuit boards!
6. Manual Mode not acting like one: The DSG behavior was even tweaked differently in these new TCMs. In Manual Mode, the transmission would shift by itself just before hitting redline. Everyone who reviewed the DSG complained that this Manual mode was really not manual at all as it was *automatically* shifting for you before redline! This can be particularly annoying on the track where you want to hold a gear on the apex of a corner.. When HPA replaced the TCM in my DSG, they also increased the redline to 7150 RPM. The beauty of the Euro-spec TCM is that now, Manual mode is truly Manual as the DSG will hold a gear around 7000 RPM until you upshift, and not upshift *for you*.
7. Manual Over-ride: One other difference to the US-spec TCM is that, when either in Drive or Sport mode, the driver can always take over the shifting action manually with the paddles *however* this over-ride times out after 15 seconds or so. In the Euro-spec TCM, the over-ride does NOT timeout after 15 seconds, but keeps you in Manual mode *until you hold the right paddle for a couple of seconds!!!* So now Im kicking myself for "erasing" the /OFF from my right paddle... oh well.
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
Audi A8 97 99 A8 Clear Corner and Side Marker Lights
If youd like to change the look of your A8 to more of a european look, replacing the US corner and side marker lights with Euro style is a great looking and easy to do upgrade. Total cost is about $130 with corner markers, side markers and new light bulbs for each.
1997 US Spec A8 with Clear Corner and Side Markers
Jump to Installation Instructions
Replacing the corner and side markers is easy! First thing youll have to do is to get the corner markers. I purchased mine from a distributor in Germany. They were about 90 euros plus shipping. I regularly purchase items from them, if youd like a set, please email me and I will order a set for you next time I place an order. It will be $95 with shipping to your location if in the US.
Here are the new corner markers. The ones that I have are manufactured by Bosch, who is the manufacturer of the OEM marker that was taken off the car.
You can get the clear side markers on ebay for about $25-30 with shipping. Do a search for "A4 Clear" and youll find them. The ones on ebay are not Bosch units.
Here are the clear corner markers with the original orange side markers:
Clear corner marker with OEM orange side marker. I do not like this look.
Clear side marker installed with clear corner marker. This looks good!
Here is Richard Eberles silver 98 A8 with 19" BBS wheels and chrome mirror caps. He also has a H&R coilover kit on his car. The following are before and after pictures. The pictures dont do the clear corner and side markers justice, they look awesome on Richards silver A8!
Before Installation
Orange OEM side and corner markers, dirty wheels.
After Installation:
Installation Instructions
Corner Markers
Items needed:
NOTE: The corner marker is removed from the headlight assembly in the picture below for ease of illustration.
This is the only capture device for the corner marker. Using both hands on the outside of the car, push/pull the marker out of the headlight assembly. It can be difficult to break the corner marker loose because of the rubber gasket that is between the headlight and corner marker & corner marker and fender. Once these seals break, it slides right out.
Remove the light bulb plug from the old corner marker. Change the light bulb to the dual filament white 1157 light bulb if you choose. The OEM light bulb is a yellow bulb, I like the look of the white corner lights. With xenons, the white corner lights almost look yellow.
Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure you line up the male plastic stabs on the corner markers with the correct female part on the fender and headlight bucket. Ensure that gasket between the headlight and corner marker is properly seated before fully inserting the corner marker.
Once its installed, use the long screwdriver to push the clip back into the socket. This secures the corner marker in place. Installation takes approximately 5-15 minutes per side.
Side Markers
Items needed:
Wrap a long thin blad flat screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent scratching your paint. The side marker is pushed forward from the rear on both sides to release it. Using the screwdriver, push the middle of the aft side of the side marker forward. This compresses the little tab on the front side of the marker (look at the new one, you can see how it works) and allows the back to pop out. Youll have to push quite hard on the marker to get it out. Using the screwdriver, pry it out slightly. It will then pop out. Be gentle!
Remove the bulb assembly, change the bulb if changing to yellow bulbs, plug it into the new clear corner marker. Install in fender, it only goes in one way. Installation takes approximately 5-15 minutes per side.
Read the rest entry[...]
1997 US Spec A8 with Clear Corner and Side Markers
Jump to Installation Instructions
Replacing the corner and side markers is easy! First thing youll have to do is to get the corner markers. I purchased mine from a distributor in Germany. They were about 90 euros plus shipping. I regularly purchase items from them, if youd like a set, please email me and I will order a set for you next time I place an order. It will be $95 with shipping to your location if in the US.
Here are the new corner markers. The ones that I have are manufactured by Bosch, who is the manufacturer of the OEM marker that was taken off the car.
You can get the clear side markers on ebay for about $25-30 with shipping. Do a search for "A4 Clear" and youll find them. The ones on ebay are not Bosch units.
Here are the clear corner markers with the original orange side markers:
Clear corner marker with OEM orange side marker. I do not like this look.
Clear side marker installed with clear corner marker. This looks good!
Here is Richard Eberles silver 98 A8 with 19" BBS wheels and chrome mirror caps. He also has a H&R coilover kit on his car. The following are before and after pictures. The pictures dont do the clear corner and side markers justice, they look awesome on Richards silver A8!
Before Installation
Orange OEM side and corner markers, dirty wheels.
After Installation:
Installation Instructions
Corner Markers
Items needed:
- Pair of 1157 White Bulbs (optional)
Long flat blade screwdriver
Flashlight
NOTE: The corner marker is removed from the headlight assembly in the picture below for ease of illustration.
This is the only capture device for the corner marker. Using both hands on the outside of the car, push/pull the marker out of the headlight assembly. It can be difficult to break the corner marker loose because of the rubber gasket that is between the headlight and corner marker & corner marker and fender. Once these seals break, it slides right out.
Remove the light bulb plug from the old corner marker. Change the light bulb to the dual filament white 1157 light bulb if you choose. The OEM light bulb is a yellow bulb, I like the look of the white corner lights. With xenons, the white corner lights almost look yellow.
Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure you line up the male plastic stabs on the corner markers with the correct female part on the fender and headlight bucket. Ensure that gasket between the headlight and corner marker is properly seated before fully inserting the corner marker.
Once its installed, use the long screwdriver to push the clip back into the socket. This secures the corner marker in place. Installation takes approximately 5-15 minutes per side.
Side Markers
Items needed:
- Pair of XXX (will be posted soon) Yellow Bulbs
Long flat blade screwdriver wrapped with electrical tape
Wrap a long thin blad flat screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent scratching your paint. The side marker is pushed forward from the rear on both sides to release it. Using the screwdriver, push the middle of the aft side of the side marker forward. This compresses the little tab on the front side of the marker (look at the new one, you can see how it works) and allows the back to pop out. Youll have to push quite hard on the marker to get it out. Using the screwdriver, pry it out slightly. It will then pop out. Be gentle!
Remove the bulb assembly, change the bulb if changing to yellow bulbs, plug it into the new clear corner marker. Install in fender, it only goes in one way. Installation takes approximately 5-15 minutes per side.
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