Showing posts with label control. Show all posts
Showing posts with label control. Show all posts
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Audi TT DIY All about the DSG and Launch Control
As most of you probably know by now, the Launch Control feature was removed from the DSGs Transmission Control Module (TCM) for all US-spec 3.2 TTs.
Ive been trying to figure out how this was done, and after working with HPA on getting their FT400 turbo kit installed in my TT weve all learned a lot about what exactly happened:
1. Lucky first few 3.2 owners: the first 150 or so US-spec TT 3.2s made it on this side of the pond with the same TCM as the Euro-spec TCM. Therefore, the Launch Control feature was enabled as it was in the code and nobody touched it. I actually test-drove the first TT that made it to California, and even though I originally thought LC was disabled, it was actually there and working like a charm. Too bad I wanted to special-order mine..
2. Port hold: Sometime in late 2003, Audi of America imposed a port hold on all 3.2 TTs as a "defect" was found with the DSG. What truly happened is not confirmed by anyone, but we believe the port hold was mainly created to disable the Launch Control in all US-bound 3.2 TTs. From that point on, all US-spec 3.2s had the Launch Control program disabled as the TCM is completely different - more on this later.
3. DSG Recall: sometime in early 2004, there was a recall on some early 3.2 VINs as they found out there was a *real* defect with the DSG. Even though the rumor was that this recall was created as an excuse to disable Launch Control on those early 150 or so cars that "slipped through", there was actually a problem with the way the early DSGs were built: a seal was installed incorrectly causing the DSG to get stuck in a gear or not engage at all. This was also experienced in Europe, so we know that this recall was legit. *However* in replacing the problematic DSGs, Audi of America took this opportunity to install completely new TCMs along with the DSG itself - hence disabling Launch Control!
4. More than a code change: Beyond a simple reflashing of the DSGs TCM to disable the Launch Control program, Audi has created an entirely new TCM controller for US-bound 3.2s. This new TCM doesnt even have the capability of getting reflashed with the Launch Control program, because the code is completely missing. I had a hard time swallowing that, being a software engineer and such, but HPA worked long hours with Germany to find out that the US-spec TCM simply cannot take the LC program at all. What HPA ended up doing for my install is order a Euro-spec TCM overnight to complete the FT400 install, as they had promised me LC with the kit. The most painful part is that the TCM is encased inside the DSG so they had to drain the oil from the DSG, take it completely apart, remove the US-spec TCM and replace it with the Euro-spec TCM.
5. Paddle circuits too! Beyond the TCM being completely new for the US, the steering wheel was also completely rewired with a 4-wire harness, vs a 2-wire harness in European 3.2s. Indeed, the paddle circuits are completely different in that the US-spec ones are simply an on/off setup (short to gound), whereas the Euro-spec ones are in the same circuit loop with different resistors to act in different functions - more on this below. So HPA had to tear the steering wheel apart to remove the paddle circuit boards, solder some resistors on them and only use 2 of the 4 wires coming from the TCM. Wish I had kept those R32 aluminum paddles circuit boards!
6. Manual Mode not acting like one: The DSG behavior was even tweaked differently in these new TCMs. In Manual Mode, the transmission would shift by itself just before hitting redline. Everyone who reviewed the DSG complained that this Manual mode was really not manual at all as it was *automatically* shifting for you before redline! This can be particularly annoying on the track where you want to hold a gear on the apex of a corner.. When HPA replaced the TCM in my DSG, they also increased the redline to 7150 RPM. The beauty of the Euro-spec TCM is that now, Manual mode is truly Manual as the DSG will hold a gear around 7000 RPM until you upshift, and not upshift *for you*.
7. Manual Over-ride: One other difference to the US-spec TCM is that, when either in Drive or Sport mode, the driver can always take over the shifting action manually with the paddles *however* this over-ride times out after 15 seconds or so. In the Euro-spec TCM, the over-ride does NOT timeout after 15 seconds, but keeps you in Manual mode *until you hold the right paddle for a couple of seconds!!!* So now Im kicking myself for "erasing" the /OFF from my right paddle... oh well.
Read the rest entry[...]
Ive been trying to figure out how this was done, and after working with HPA on getting their FT400 turbo kit installed in my TT weve all learned a lot about what exactly happened:
1. Lucky first few 3.2 owners: the first 150 or so US-spec TT 3.2s made it on this side of the pond with the same TCM as the Euro-spec TCM. Therefore, the Launch Control feature was enabled as it was in the code and nobody touched it. I actually test-drove the first TT that made it to California, and even though I originally thought LC was disabled, it was actually there and working like a charm. Too bad I wanted to special-order mine..
2. Port hold: Sometime in late 2003, Audi of America imposed a port hold on all 3.2 TTs as a "defect" was found with the DSG. What truly happened is not confirmed by anyone, but we believe the port hold was mainly created to disable the Launch Control in all US-bound 3.2 TTs. From that point on, all US-spec 3.2s had the Launch Control program disabled as the TCM is completely different - more on this later.
3. DSG Recall: sometime in early 2004, there was a recall on some early 3.2 VINs as they found out there was a *real* defect with the DSG. Even though the rumor was that this recall was created as an excuse to disable Launch Control on those early 150 or so cars that "slipped through", there was actually a problem with the way the early DSGs were built: a seal was installed incorrectly causing the DSG to get stuck in a gear or not engage at all. This was also experienced in Europe, so we know that this recall was legit. *However* in replacing the problematic DSGs, Audi of America took this opportunity to install completely new TCMs along with the DSG itself - hence disabling Launch Control!
4. More than a code change: Beyond a simple reflashing of the DSGs TCM to disable the Launch Control program, Audi has created an entirely new TCM controller for US-bound 3.2s. This new TCM doesnt even have the capability of getting reflashed with the Launch Control program, because the code is completely missing. I had a hard time swallowing that, being a software engineer and such, but HPA worked long hours with Germany to find out that the US-spec TCM simply cannot take the LC program at all. What HPA ended up doing for my install is order a Euro-spec TCM overnight to complete the FT400 install, as they had promised me LC with the kit. The most painful part is that the TCM is encased inside the DSG so they had to drain the oil from the DSG, take it completely apart, remove the US-spec TCM and replace it with the Euro-spec TCM.
5. Paddle circuits too! Beyond the TCM being completely new for the US, the steering wheel was also completely rewired with a 4-wire harness, vs a 2-wire harness in European 3.2s. Indeed, the paddle circuits are completely different in that the US-spec ones are simply an on/off setup (short to gound), whereas the Euro-spec ones are in the same circuit loop with different resistors to act in different functions - more on this below. So HPA had to tear the steering wheel apart to remove the paddle circuit boards, solder some resistors on them and only use 2 of the 4 wires coming from the TCM. Wish I had kept those R32 aluminum paddles circuit boards!
6. Manual Mode not acting like one: The DSG behavior was even tweaked differently in these new TCMs. In Manual Mode, the transmission would shift by itself just before hitting redline. Everyone who reviewed the DSG complained that this Manual mode was really not manual at all as it was *automatically* shifting for you before redline! This can be particularly annoying on the track where you want to hold a gear on the apex of a corner.. When HPA replaced the TCM in my DSG, they also increased the redline to 7150 RPM. The beauty of the Euro-spec TCM is that now, Manual mode is truly Manual as the DSG will hold a gear around 7000 RPM until you upshift, and not upshift *for you*.
7. Manual Over-ride: One other difference to the US-spec TCM is that, when either in Drive or Sport mode, the driver can always take over the shifting action manually with the paddles *however* this over-ride times out after 15 seconds or so. In the Euro-spec TCM, the over-ride does NOT timeout after 15 seconds, but keeps you in Manual mode *until you hold the right paddle for a couple of seconds!!!* So now Im kicking myself for "erasing" the /OFF from my right paddle... oh well.
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
Audi A4 B5 Front Control Arm Replacement
The parts book diagram showing all the front suspension parts.
A Complete control arm set with NEW BOLTS and TREs (Tie Rod Ends)!
Yay, get ready for some work!
So your control arms are shot and your ride sounds like a 1930s Ford that squeaks all over. No problem, if the squeaking are your control arms then here is your write-up to replace them.
It is a good idea to replace the TREs as well when you this as an alignment is a very good idea after ANY suspension related work. With new TREs and CAs you wouldnt have to go back to the shop to get an alignment down the road when you replace either one.
Here is Chris Haighs write-up on how to replace the TRE. Go by his write-up on how to remove and replace the TREs and use mine for the control arms. Most Control Arm sets will cost around 500$, you get what you pay for so watch out for those 200$ sets on eBay. After all its the suspension that keeps your tuned and personalized car on the road.
Your Control arms need replacement anyways if the boot looks like this which is torn up and fluffy.
Here are some other ways to check which arm is clunking.
1) Jack car up on side thats clunking.
2) Do not remove wheel. Make sure steering rack is locked (ie key out of ignition, and turn steering wheel to lock it)
3) Grab the wheel by the 9 and 3 positions and wiggle it back and forth as it would turn by the steering. See if there is any play - there should be basically none. If you do have play, look at your control arms and feel around to see if anything is clunking or moving excessively.
Click here for a video of this test.
Click here for a video of a test for lower control arms.
In case you need to get the "knuckle assembly" aka wheel bearing housing out for a wheel bearing repair this should guide you to the removal of that as well.
Enough for the stuff here is what you need:
Breaker bar + extension if needed
17mm hex or smaller bigger depending on your year for the axle bolt
Ball joint removal tool
Set of wrenches
Maybe some air tools
Pb blaster or any other bolt rust breaker spray
Torque wrench
Basically a good garage should have all of the above and maybe even more
Here we go:
I am writing this guide several months after I had done the actual work. There might be some steps missing or not pictured as some of the stuff is a basic unbolt and bolt back on.
1. In order for the whole knuckle assembly to come out you need to loosen up the axle bolt that is attached to the CV boot. Its either 17mm hex (allen) or 24mm head bolt. Check that one out before you start and get the right size tool. That thing is in there TIGHT so an extension might be a very good idea as shown here:
2. Get your vehicle on JACKSTANDS not a floor jack, to many people had been injured and or killed without the use of stands. Invest 20$ in a set of them, they are cheap and safer than the hydraulic jack an article by Andy on where to jack up your car can be found here
3. Remove the wheels on both sides to expose the complete front suspension assembly.
4. Follow the previously mentioned TRE article to remove the TRE http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel29.shtml
I had some problems with the passenger side and ended up taking mine to the shop to get it removed. Here is what I ran into when doing my TRE
5. The front should look like this now with the TRE removed:
6. Since you will take out the complete front suspension you will should remove the brake disc and caliper as well.
In case you want to pain the caliper this is the perfect time for that as well. There are write-ups on how to remove the front brakes but here is a quick refresher.
Caliper is held onto the bracket with 2 hex bolts
Caliper is held onto the knuckle with 2 17mm IIRC bolts which are tight on there.
Brake disc is loosely held onto the knuckle with the caliper bracket, once that is loose you should be able to remove the disc. In case the disc is stuck due to rust tap it slightly with a hammer and a screwdriver like a chisel, it should come of that way.
Inspect your brake hoses for any cracking or damage, if you find some REPLACE THEM IN PAIRS! Otherwise hang the caliper now somewhere with a zip tie or have an old flowerpot of box to rest it on the ground. Dont let the caliper hang by the brake hose alone.
This is a good idea.
7. The next item on the list is the so called pinch bolt holding the upper control arms to the knuckle.
A close up
This bolt has been an issue with a lot of people to remove. If your car had been exposed to salty winter roads you will most likely have some issues removing it. I had no issues removing it but spray it with Pb blaster and follow Carsons idea as well:
/quote: Hitting the area around the pinch bolt with a hammer to loosen it up helps (read the directions on the can of PB, useful info)
You can also try turning the pinch bolt with a wrench after you get the nut off the end of it, it will either break the bolt loose or twist the head off the bolt, if it starts to twist stop what youre doing immediately. From experience, most of the time when I have to remove the pinch bolt from a steel wheel bearing housing I gotta haul out my HD Snap-On air hammer./end quote
8. After the pinch bolt is loose remove the upper control arms from the knuckle, they are just "pushed" in. With road salt and dirt in them they could be very had to remove so a tool like this might be helpful:
These are ball joint separators and range from 11$ to 100$ in price, you get what you pay for in quality. Your local car place might have them for rent as well.
9. Now its time to loosen that tight axle bolt up some more. When I did the work on Kevins car I forgot to loosen them up with the car on the ground. I ended up breaking the bolt loose in the air and bended the breaker bar pretty good. So dont forget to loosen that bolt up before you lift the car into the air! Here are our results:
10. With the bolt loose. Tap it slightly with a hammer to "push" the whole CV joint out of the knuckle. I turned the bolt a like 2 turns, tapped it with hammer back to the bearing and turned again and so on... be gentle as the wheel bearing sits in the knuckle assembly. Depending on the mileage that you have on the car its a good idea to replace both bearings as well since those are known to fail at some point and time.
You should be here now:
The knuckle is still connected to the car by the lower control arms while everything up top is loose and removed.
11. The upper control arms are attached to the strut mounting plate and we were unable to remove the bolts because of tightness, we ended up removing the plate. Its attached with 3 bolts as shown here:
Remove those bolts and the top will become loose. In order to take the strut tower out you will have to remove the lower bolt that is attached to the control arm. Also be very careful to not over torque those when you reinstall the whole thing.
The upper control arms showing some damage on the boots when we wedge something in there to remove them.
Remove the old arms either on the car or on the mounting plate.
12. Here is a picture of the lower control arm assembly connected to the knuckle. Now comes the removal of the ABS sensor (already loose in the 1st picture) if you want to. The abs sensor does NOT have to be removed but its a good idea of cleaning it while you in here All that is needed is to disconnect the sensor cable.
In the top picture it shows the ABS sensor already removed. The abs sensor is just "pushed" into the whole where it sits the rest of its live and gets exposed to rust so it might be a bit hard to remove, but ours just pulled right out.
The connector for the sensor is stashed behind the fender well as seen here:
There is a rubber plug that you need to pull out, when doing so you will expose the connector, disconnect it and tuck it somewhere into the top of the control arms as shown.
13.The only thing that is holding the knuckle now to the car are all the lower bolts from the control arms and the reversed C sway bar link and the strut/suspension.
The rear control arm goes in from the top while the front control arm is pushed into the knuckle from the bottom. The reversed C is the sway bar link and connects to the control arm. Those are basic unbolt and removal steps now.
That is how the arms will look with the knuckle removed
You might need to use the joint tool again as the lower arms might be even tighter than the uppers. I had no issues with either, but this tool with be a life saver!
Unbolt those and take the knuckle assembly out
14. If you went the way that we did you car will look like this now:
15. In case you cant get one of the bolts out and you are stuck like this:
You will need to loosen up the green circled plate holding the sub frame on the side. No need to totally remove me but loosening it up will give you enough clearance to remove the bolt.
We loosened our bolt barely an inch and it worked
Remove lower front and lower rear control arms you complete the removal of all the control arms
that is it! Reinstallation in the reverse order!
Couple of notes in the end:
While doing this you can do several things:
Repaint Calipers
Change out brake hoses to stainless steel ones
Change out brake pads and rotor
Upgrade the front brakes to A8 rotors and TT carriers
Spray paint the whole fender well BLACK again while everything is removed for a cleaner look
Flush your brake fluid out
Oil change
Engine mount replacement
DV replacement
Just to mention a few things!
Torque Specs for reassembly:
Kevin always get on me for not using a torque wrench so here are the specs taken from Bentley Manual
Upper front; 50 Nm + 1/4 turn into mounting bracket
Upper rear; 50Nm + 1/4 turn into mounting bracket
Upper pinch bolt; 40 Nm (not TRE pinch bolt)
Lower front; 80 Nm + 1/4 turn into subframe
Lower rear; 90 Nm +1/4 turn into subframe
Lower control arms into steering knuckle; 100 Nm
Mounting bracket (shock tower assembly)
Upper bolts from inside the engine bay; 75 Nm
Lower nut and bolt into control arm; 90 Nm
Sway bar end link;
Lower connection to the sway bar; 100 Nm
Upper connection into the control arm; 40 Nm + 1/4 turn
Rear Sub Frame; Large Bolt 110 Nm + 1/4 turn small bolts; 23 Nm
A few tips for the reassembly. Dont torque down your new control arms "dry" that means without being attached to the knuckle assembly when reinstalling. Doing so will make it hard to move them around as needed.
USE antiseize on the following parts: Pinch bolt, TRE threads and the bolt holding the TRE into the knuckle.
CPP has a set of full metal suspension parts that are likely to last a whole lot longer than anything else. Their website with all the information except prices is here
Kris Hansen added grease fittings to his arms in terms of long term life. He has those included in his Upper Control arm write-up found on his website
Passatworld (VW Passat and the Audi A4 are basically the same mechanically) has a small Control Arm Faq that is Listed on the website
There is an active recall on the front lower control arm that will be replaced for free if certain conditions are met found Under this post
Read the rest entry[...]
A Complete control arm set with NEW BOLTS and TREs (Tie Rod Ends)!
Yay, get ready for some work!
So your control arms are shot and your ride sounds like a 1930s Ford that squeaks all over. No problem, if the squeaking are your control arms then here is your write-up to replace them.
It is a good idea to replace the TREs as well when you this as an alignment is a very good idea after ANY suspension related work. With new TREs and CAs you wouldnt have to go back to the shop to get an alignment down the road when you replace either one.
Here is Chris Haighs write-up on how to replace the TRE. Go by his write-up on how to remove and replace the TREs and use mine for the control arms. Most Control Arm sets will cost around 500$, you get what you pay for so watch out for those 200$ sets on eBay. After all its the suspension that keeps your tuned and personalized car on the road.
Your Control arms need replacement anyways if the boot looks like this which is torn up and fluffy.
Here are some other ways to check which arm is clunking.
1) Jack car up on side thats clunking.
2) Do not remove wheel. Make sure steering rack is locked (ie key out of ignition, and turn steering wheel to lock it)
3) Grab the wheel by the 9 and 3 positions and wiggle it back and forth as it would turn by the steering. See if there is any play - there should be basically none. If you do have play, look at your control arms and feel around to see if anything is clunking or moving excessively.
Click here for a video of this test.
Click here for a video of a test for lower control arms.
In case you need to get the "knuckle assembly" aka wheel bearing housing out for a wheel bearing repair this should guide you to the removal of that as well.
Enough for the stuff here is what you need:
Breaker bar + extension if needed
17mm hex or smaller bigger depending on your year for the axle bolt
Ball joint removal tool
Set of wrenches
Maybe some air tools
Pb blaster or any other bolt rust breaker spray
Torque wrench
Basically a good garage should have all of the above and maybe even more
Here we go:
I am writing this guide several months after I had done the actual work. There might be some steps missing or not pictured as some of the stuff is a basic unbolt and bolt back on.
1. In order for the whole knuckle assembly to come out you need to loosen up the axle bolt that is attached to the CV boot. Its either 17mm hex (allen) or 24mm head bolt. Check that one out before you start and get the right size tool. That thing is in there TIGHT so an extension might be a very good idea as shown here:
2. Get your vehicle on JACKSTANDS not a floor jack, to many people had been injured and or killed without the use of stands. Invest 20$ in a set of them, they are cheap and safer than the hydraulic jack an article by Andy on where to jack up your car can be found here
3. Remove the wheels on both sides to expose the complete front suspension assembly.
4. Follow the previously mentioned TRE article to remove the TRE http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel29.shtml
I had some problems with the passenger side and ended up taking mine to the shop to get it removed. Here is what I ran into when doing my TRE
5. The front should look like this now with the TRE removed:
6. Since you will take out the complete front suspension you will should remove the brake disc and caliper as well.
In case you want to pain the caliper this is the perfect time for that as well. There are write-ups on how to remove the front brakes but here is a quick refresher.
Caliper is held onto the bracket with 2 hex bolts
Caliper is held onto the knuckle with 2 17mm IIRC bolts which are tight on there.
Brake disc is loosely held onto the knuckle with the caliper bracket, once that is loose you should be able to remove the disc. In case the disc is stuck due to rust tap it slightly with a hammer and a screwdriver like a chisel, it should come of that way.
Inspect your brake hoses for any cracking or damage, if you find some REPLACE THEM IN PAIRS! Otherwise hang the caliper now somewhere with a zip tie or have an old flowerpot of box to rest it on the ground. Dont let the caliper hang by the brake hose alone.
This is a good idea.
7. The next item on the list is the so called pinch bolt holding the upper control arms to the knuckle.
A close up
This bolt has been an issue with a lot of people to remove. If your car had been exposed to salty winter roads you will most likely have some issues removing it. I had no issues removing it but spray it with Pb blaster and follow Carsons idea as well:
/quote: Hitting the area around the pinch bolt with a hammer to loosen it up helps (read the directions on the can of PB, useful info)
You can also try turning the pinch bolt with a wrench after you get the nut off the end of it, it will either break the bolt loose or twist the head off the bolt, if it starts to twist stop what youre doing immediately. From experience, most of the time when I have to remove the pinch bolt from a steel wheel bearing housing I gotta haul out my HD Snap-On air hammer./end quote
8. After the pinch bolt is loose remove the upper control arms from the knuckle, they are just "pushed" in. With road salt and dirt in them they could be very had to remove so a tool like this might be helpful:
These are ball joint separators and range from 11$ to 100$ in price, you get what you pay for in quality. Your local car place might have them for rent as well.
9. Now its time to loosen that tight axle bolt up some more. When I did the work on Kevins car I forgot to loosen them up with the car on the ground. I ended up breaking the bolt loose in the air and bended the breaker bar pretty good. So dont forget to loosen that bolt up before you lift the car into the air! Here are our results:
10. With the bolt loose. Tap it slightly with a hammer to "push" the whole CV joint out of the knuckle. I turned the bolt a like 2 turns, tapped it with hammer back to the bearing and turned again and so on... be gentle as the wheel bearing sits in the knuckle assembly. Depending on the mileage that you have on the car its a good idea to replace both bearings as well since those are known to fail at some point and time.
You should be here now:
The knuckle is still connected to the car by the lower control arms while everything up top is loose and removed.
11. The upper control arms are attached to the strut mounting plate and we were unable to remove the bolts because of tightness, we ended up removing the plate. Its attached with 3 bolts as shown here:
Remove those bolts and the top will become loose. In order to take the strut tower out you will have to remove the lower bolt that is attached to the control arm. Also be very careful to not over torque those when you reinstall the whole thing.
The upper control arms showing some damage on the boots when we wedge something in there to remove them.
Remove the old arms either on the car or on the mounting plate.
12. Here is a picture of the lower control arm assembly connected to the knuckle. Now comes the removal of the ABS sensor (already loose in the 1st picture) if you want to. The abs sensor does NOT have to be removed but its a good idea of cleaning it while you in here All that is needed is to disconnect the sensor cable.
In the top picture it shows the ABS sensor already removed. The abs sensor is just "pushed" into the whole where it sits the rest of its live and gets exposed to rust so it might be a bit hard to remove, but ours just pulled right out.
The connector for the sensor is stashed behind the fender well as seen here:
There is a rubber plug that you need to pull out, when doing so you will expose the connector, disconnect it and tuck it somewhere into the top of the control arms as shown.
13.The only thing that is holding the knuckle now to the car are all the lower bolts from the control arms and the reversed C sway bar link and the strut/suspension.
The rear control arm goes in from the top while the front control arm is pushed into the knuckle from the bottom. The reversed C is the sway bar link and connects to the control arm. Those are basic unbolt and removal steps now.
That is how the arms will look with the knuckle removed
You might need to use the joint tool again as the lower arms might be even tighter than the uppers. I had no issues with either, but this tool with be a life saver!
Unbolt those and take the knuckle assembly out
14. If you went the way that we did you car will look like this now:
15. In case you cant get one of the bolts out and you are stuck like this:
You will need to loosen up the green circled plate holding the sub frame on the side. No need to totally remove me but loosening it up will give you enough clearance to remove the bolt.
We loosened our bolt barely an inch and it worked
Remove lower front and lower rear control arms you complete the removal of all the control arms
that is it! Reinstallation in the reverse order!
Couple of notes in the end:
While doing this you can do several things:
Repaint Calipers
Change out brake hoses to stainless steel ones
Change out brake pads and rotor
Upgrade the front brakes to A8 rotors and TT carriers
Spray paint the whole fender well BLACK again while everything is removed for a cleaner look
Flush your brake fluid out
Oil change
Engine mount replacement
DV replacement
Just to mention a few things!
Torque Specs for reassembly:
Kevin always get on me for not using a torque wrench so here are the specs taken from Bentley Manual
Upper front; 50 Nm + 1/4 turn into mounting bracket
Upper rear; 50Nm + 1/4 turn into mounting bracket
Upper pinch bolt; 40 Nm (not TRE pinch bolt)
Lower front; 80 Nm + 1/4 turn into subframe
Lower rear; 90 Nm +1/4 turn into subframe
Lower control arms into steering knuckle; 100 Nm
Mounting bracket (shock tower assembly)
Upper bolts from inside the engine bay; 75 Nm
Lower nut and bolt into control arm; 90 Nm
Sway bar end link;
Lower connection to the sway bar; 100 Nm
Upper connection into the control arm; 40 Nm + 1/4 turn
Rear Sub Frame; Large Bolt 110 Nm + 1/4 turn small bolts; 23 Nm
A few tips for the reassembly. Dont torque down your new control arms "dry" that means without being attached to the knuckle assembly when reinstalling. Doing so will make it hard to move them around as needed.
USE antiseize on the following parts: Pinch bolt, TRE threads and the bolt holding the TRE into the knuckle.
CPP has a set of full metal suspension parts that are likely to last a whole lot longer than anything else. Their website with all the information except prices is here
Kris Hansen added grease fittings to his arms in terms of long term life. He has those included in his Upper Control arm write-up found on his website
Passatworld (VW Passat and the Audi A4 are basically the same mechanically) has a small Control Arm Faq that is Listed on the website
There is an active recall on the front lower control arm that will be replaced for free if certain conditions are met found Under this post
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